Pisa

More than a Leaning Tower

When you think of Tuscany you no doubt think of Florence and Siena , hilltop towns and Pisa. When thinking about Pisa we immediately think of the Leaning Tower, the undisputed symbol of the city. But Pisa goes far beyond the tower: there are many reasons to visit the Tuscan capital, which is a true treasure chest of artistic and historical treasures.

Doesn’t look like it’s leaning here?!

My Favorite Memory

I must say though that my most memorable time in Pisa was a chance opportunity to meet a local resident and spend time with her. When I checked into my AirBnB apartment, I had a nice conversation in Italian with the woman who checked me in (she worked for the apartment owner). She said I reminded her of the owner’s aunt who lived nearby and if I didn’t mind she would talk with the aunt about meeting me.

Long story short, I met the aunt, Marialuce (Luce for short) who invited me to her home for lunch the following day. Luce lives in a palazzo that has been in her family for over 300 years; now she and her sister are the residents and each have an apartment there.

Luce at the Marina di Pisa

The following day, Luce took me to the Marina di Pisa (a small coastal community) and explained all about the growth of the area from the building of the American base there and how it was now a much smaller American presence. Most of the homes that were built by the military for the servicemen and their families are now owned by Italians as summer homes. It was a wonderful afternoon of walking along the coast line, learning a bit of local history and lunch.

Finally, Luce offered to drive me to the train station on the day that I was leaving. It was a wonderful experience, a great opportunity to speak in Italian to an Italian in normal conversation and to meet a gracious lady.

Other Bits of Information

Pisa was an ancient maritime republic, the city was the birthplace of Galileo Galilei and is still home to three of the most important university institutions in Italy and Europe: the Scuola Normale Superiore, Scuola Superiore Sant’Anna and the University of Pisa.

The population of Pisa is over 90,000 today, it is believed to have been founded by the Etruscans as there are Etruscan necropolis there dating back to the 7th-6th century BC.

Much Ado About Something

Another grand location is the Piazza dei Cavaliere (Knights Square), which was the center of power for centuries in Pisa. Today, one of the most standout buildings is the home of the prestigious Scuola Normale di Pisa. It was also once the headquarters of the Order of the Knights of Santo Stefano which was founded by Cosimo I de”Medici. The building was designed by Giorgio Vasari and reminds me of a building not far from the Pitti Palace in Florence.

Square of Miracles is More than a Tower

Everyone’s tour of Pisa begins at the Leaning Tower, the first thing to see in the city. Due to its legendary tilt, the Tower of Pisa is one of the most famous and visited monuments in the world. Its construction dates back to 1173 and began to tilt even before the third floor was completed, due to the sandy and soft soil on which the foundations rested.

I didn’t expect to be so enthralled with the tower when I saw it. I think because it has such a fascinating history of trying to save it from falling I was a bit dumbstruck when I saw it. But then I began watching all the crazy tourists taking photos to cross off their bucket lists and not staying around a bit to learn about the history….judgmental of me, I know. People walking on the grass that had big no entry signs, people climbing over chained off areas..no respect.

The tower is just one part of a larger duomo complex called the “Square of Miracles”, which also includes a cathedral, a cloistered cemetary and a baptistery. The tower was intended to be the bell tower for the cathedral (campanile). It is interesting how the faulty construction on unstable ground resulted in it being the most famous part of the complex while the cathedral and the cemetary are both quite beautiful but don’t get near the visits.

More Leaning

There are other structures in Pisa that have experienced leaning due to the unstable soft founds. One is the Church of San Nicola which has what is considered a “mild” lean while the Church of San Michele Degli Scalzi has a 5 degree tilt.

Walking About Pisa

Here’s a tidbit I didn’t know before I visited Pisa: Galileo Galilei used the tower for various experiments to prove his theories.

Pisa is located a few kilometers from the mouth of the Arno river; over time the location of the mouth of the river has changed resulting in what is now the main part of the city being further away from the mouth of the river.

The river is flanked by many elegant buildings which now house shops, bars and clubs on the ground floors. These were once the homes of the rich families. Sadly, many of these were “modernized” during the second half of the 19th century.

There is also an interesting area of the city called “Borgo Stretto” or “Borgo” to the Pisans. It is a porticoed street overlooked by elegant buildings dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries and along which there are shops, bars and cafes.

Intact Walls

The historic walls are pretty much intact around the historic area.  You can go up onto them and take a grand walk with great views.

Jewish cemetary

Tourist traps

There is also an interesting Maritime Museum located in the grand stables of a former palazzo that is focused on historical remains of ancient boats.

On to Rome to meet up with my transportation to my Abruzzo cooking experience!